Chiloe is a rugged, windswept Chilean island defined by ancient myths and traditions. South America’s second-largest island boasts old fishing villages intermixed with incredible nature.
Sixteen of its over 100 island churches have been declared UNESCO World Heritage sites that drawing visitors from around the world. However, the penguins and palafitos (stilt houses) inspired us to tour Chiloe Island.
It’s not a huge island. However, the highlights are a good distance from each other. Generally, if you are trying to tour Chiloe as a day trip, you need to pick between penguins at Puñihuil or stilted houses in Castro.
Trying to do it all had us in transit for over eight hours of a long fifteen-hour day. Was it worth it? Read on, and you decide.
Let Chile inspire you …
Things to do in Chiloe
Take a boat to see the Chiloe penguins
The three tiny volcanic islands just off the west coast of Puñihuil are the only known shared breeding place in the world for Humbolt and Magellan penguins. And, getting there is half the fun, the process comparable to our penguin visit in Isla Damas.
After purchasing boat tickets, we were fitted with lifejackets and given ponchos. Anchored near the shore, the boats wait as we are pulled to them upon a metal cart that holds up to 10 people. There is no best spot to sit, as the captain turns the boat for penguin viewing.
TIP: Step off quickly just before a wave crashes over the base of the cart, or like me, you will have wet shoes, socks, and pant legs.
Despite the choppy water and pelting rain, the boat was surprisingly smooth. The penguins are adorable birds whether waddling uphill, jumping down, or diving into the sea.
Photo ©Sarah Albom. All rights reserved.
Tour Chiloe churches
The colourful small wooden churches that dot the island were often built by fishermen and shipbuilders and served as navigational aids for them. They represent the fusion of European Christian architecture and Chilean coastal traditions.
Interestingly, like their boats, the churches are built without nails, utilizing various kinds of wooden joints. Notice the ceiling in the photo below appears like an inverted wooden boat. Built on high ground, most churches have south-facing entrances to keep the rain out. Sixteen churches on Chiloe Island have been declared World Heritage sites.
View the Chiloe Palafitos (stilted houses) in Castro
Called palafitos, these waterside houses are built on cypress pillars in the Gamboa neighbourhood. They were originally built during the logging boom in the late 1800s. Most are homes, although there are now hotels and restaurants that are in palafitos.
Shop handcrafts at the artisanal markets
The island has several artisan markets, the most famous being the Sunday Handicraft Fair in Dalcahue. We visited several markets and consistently discovered incredibly talented weavers and knitters. From sweaters and ponchos to socks and hats, the locals really know what they are doing.
Keep an eye out for nature and wildlife
Reminding us a bit of home (New Zealand), Chiloe has a densely populated coastal birdlife, especially near the fishing ports and mussel farms. Aside from the penguins at Puñihuil, we saw black vultures, cormorants, steamer ducks, hawks, and swans. In fact, the name Chiloe means “land of seagulls” in the Mapuche language.
Inland, the island is home to pudú, the world’s smallest deer. Sarah was lucky enough to see one as we drove past a part of the road that didn’t allow for stopping.
Our private guide pointed out quite a few unique aspects of the flora in Chiloe.
What to see at key stops as you tour Chiloe Island
Chacao
We entered from the ferry in Chacao, one of the oldest villages on the island, established in 1567. Most tours stop here, and key sites include:
- Chacao’s church.
- The main square, where we spotted a Monkey Puzzle Tree.
- Colourful homes.
Ancud
We had to skip Ancud in order to visit both the penguins and stilted houses in a day. What we missed includes:
- Plaza de Armas (the main square), where there is a church, a gazebo featuring mythological Chilote sculptures, and the central craft market.
- Regional Museum of Ancud.
- Fort San Antonio is one of the last Spanish fortifications in Chile.
- Visitor centre featuring history and information on the island’s churches.
Puñihuil
If you are headed to see the penguins, this small fishing village and beach is your first stop. Take the boat to see:
- Penguins in the spring and summer seasons (October to March)
- Other wildlife including cormorants, vultures, sea lions, and blue whales.
Castro
Castro is home to the palafitos (stilted houses) as well as being the capital of the Chiloe archipelago. Here you will find:
- Colourful palafitos.
- Wood, wool, and stone souvenirs at the indoor handcraft fair of Castro.
- Iglesia San Francisco (World Heritage Sites).
- Nercón Church, built in 1890 and recently restored and now a national monument.
Dalcahue
This port city was one of our key stops. Here we enjoyed:
- Traditional woollen handcraft fair.
- Church of Our Lady of Sorrows, a national monument and World Heritage Site.
- History Museum (we did not have time to visit here).
Small towns of San Juan, Tenaun, Colo, and Isla Aucar
Rather than taking the direct route of Highway 5 straight back, we drove through several small towns on the way to Aucar, where we walked across the bridge to Isla Aucar (The Island of Sailors). The small island is believed to be the resting place for the souls of those lost at sea.
How to tour Chiloe Island
Chiloe Island is often a day trip beginning with a 30-minute drive from Puerto Varas or a 50-minute drive from Puerto Montt to Pargua. From here, the Chiloe ferry brings cars and passengers to the island. The three ways to tour Chiloe are on a group tour, with a private guide, or on your own.
Here are the key advantages and disadvantages of each:
Group tour
Group tours are perfect for those who don’t want to drive and want the added knowledge that comes from having a guide. The downside is the more rigid schedule and the occasional need to wait for other tour members.
Initially, we searched for tours to the penguins and the palafitos but found none. It is too long of a day. Here are our top recommendations for each site:
Full day at Chiloé Island, Castro and Dalcahue: This tour is for those who want to see the stilted houses. A small group tour that picks up from Puerto Montt. This 14-hour tour includes:
- Transportation to the island, including the ferry.
- Chacao for the church and historic square.
- Castro for stilted houses, the main square, San Francisco church (World Heritage site), and Nercón Church (national monument).
- Optional lunch in Castro.
- Dalcahue for the waterfront, local artisan market, museum, and church.
- Reserve your full day at Chiloé Island, Castro and Dalcahue tour here
The Island of Chiloe and The Penguins of Puñihuil: This tour is for those who want to see the penguins and also picks up from most Puerto Varas or Puerto Montt hotels. This 10-hour tour includes:
- Transportation to the island, including the ferry.
- Chacao to see the church and the historic square.
- Caulín Beach is famous for oysters and rich marine fauna. (In the winter, the flamingos we saw in the Atacama desert migrate here.)
- Puñihuil, where your guide will join you on the boat out to see the penguins (extra fee)
- Two stops in Ancud: San Antonio Fort and Plaza de Armas, where you can see the main square and craft markets.
- Reserve your Island of Chiloe and The Penguins of Puñihuil tour here: either starting from Puerto Varas or starting in Puerto Montt
Private guide
The three main advantages of a private guide are flexibility, a focus on what you care about most, and a timeline that fits your needs. The downside is the cost.
We hired a certified professional private guide that allowed us to design our basic programme, which included penguins and palafitos. His proposed schedule added even more. While we paid for this luxury and very long day, for us, it was worth every penny. Reserve your private guide here.
On your own: Self-drive and bus/ferry options
The main advantage of self-driving is complete flexibility and the ability to stay for multiple nights.
For Chiloe, the disadvantages include the cost of the car and transporting it on the Chiloe ferry, the need to drive rather than enjoy the details of the scenery, and the loss of fascinating stories that surround this island. Also, while the Panamerican highway (highway 5) running through the island is fine, many back roads are unpaved and poorly signposted.
We allocated one day for our visit and opted not to have a car, choosing to hire the private guide above. However, had we understood the distance and time to travel between the Chiloe Island penguins and Castro palafitos, we might have scheduled our time to allow for at least one night on the island.
If we chose to drive, we would have rented a car through RentalCars.com, as we had in Santiago, Salta, and Buenos Aires. Their online system is easy to use. They provide a conglomerate listing of local dealers.
Rather than working with Spanish-speaking companies directly, we had English-speaking customer service. Plus, when one of the companies accidentally overcharged us, Rental Cars effortlessly (on our part) got us our refund. ⇒ Compare rental car pricing at RentalCars.com
You can also get from Puerto Varas to Chiloe Island on your own by bus and ferry.
How to get from Puerto Varas to Chiloe Island on your own
Where to stay in Castro Chiloe
If we had stayed the night, it would have been at one of these two options:
Enjoy Chiloé – Hotel De La Isla: If we were to do this again, we would have spent more time at every stop, relaxed a bit, and spent the night in Castro, ideally at the five-star Enjoy hotel and casino. Located seaside, many of the rooms have stunning views; however, everyone can relax at the spa, sauna, hot tubs, restaurants or bar. Or, energize at the gym or in the casino. ⇒ Reserve your stay at Enjoy Chiloé
Palafito Azul: If we wanted an authentic Chiloe experience, we would stay at this aparthotel with sea views and a kitchen. A great location right on the water, it has extremely good reviews and customer ratings.⇒ Reserve your stay at Palafito Azul
Things to know before you tour Chiloe Island
- Wear layers, and bring a rain jacket.
- Eat seafood or fish on the island.
- There are bathrooms and a tiny cafeteria on the ferry to Chiloe.
- There are few other public bathrooms on the island. Use them when you see them. It might be a while before the next one appears.
- Bring toilet paper (this goes for everywhere in South America).
Save on your trip with these resources
These are our go-to companies when we travel. We believe this list to be the best in each category. You can’t go wrong using them on your trip too.
- Flights: we use Expedia for the best and cheapest flight options.
- Accommodations: we use Booking.com (hotels), VRBO (self-contained), or Hostelworld (budget).
- Cars (gas or electric): we use RentalCars to search for deals and dealer ratings.
- Motorcycles: we have heard good things about BikesBooking.
- Private guides: we often find the best option is to work with a private guide from Viator.
- Travel Insurance: while not required, we always opt for travel insurance and start at InsureMyTrip to compare coverage plans.
Check out our travel resources page for more companies that we use when you travel.
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Our day on Chiloe Island was part of our larger South American itinerary
zidane
great place to visit, thank you for creating this article
Helen
How amazing to see the penguins! This looks like an awesome place to visit.
Nadia
Great tips! Super handy as we are bookmarking spots for our Chile adventure!
Keri | Ladies What Travel
I’ve not visited South America yet – I still have the whole continent to explore! Chile definitely interests me, I’m a big wildlife fan so I’d love to see penguins in their natural habitat!
Corey
I love my time spent in Chile many moons ago, but never made it to this island. What an amazing country though. Those penguins sure are cute! I like how detailed you are in the different ways to see the island, and what types of tours and guides you can get. Important info. to know, especially on an island where it’s hard to do it all.
beatravelling
I’m soaking up everything Chile these days. Off in the fall 🙂 Thanks!
Tanja/The Red Phone Box travels
Thanks for showing me this beautiful place
Clare
I’d want to see both too, I think, and as we much prefer travelling slowly and soaking up the atmosphere of a place rather than rushing around, I rather like the idea of spending a night or two here. It looks like an island well worth visiting.
Kisha Stewart-Harris
I think I might just faint if I actually saw some real penguins outside of a zoo! I’d make the trip out there just to say I experienced that, not to mention the charm and whimsy of San Juan. Going there would be the icing on the cake.
Katie
Penguins would be so fun to see up close! You look like you had a great time
Jill
Thanks for introducing me – I’ve not heard of this island before. What a beautiful, and seemingly a bit windswept, island.
Jasmine Hewitt
great guide on things to do. I’d love to see the penguins!
Amy
Never been to this place but that place looks very vibrant to relax and unwind. Looks like you had a great time there!
Paul Pietrangelo
Rhonda, this place was very interesting, especially the Floripondio, a flower with hallucinogenic properties . I’ve never seen such a flower that grows upside down. Can you smell the flower or can you get some of those hallucinogenic properties ? Just be careful I guess. How was the food in this local? See ya.
Cruisin Paul
Natural Beauty And Makeup
I have always seen penguins in the zoo that too locked in a cage/glass box type but never like this open face-to-face! I would love to visit this place someday. Amazing pictures💕👌
Jackline a
I have never heard of this island but I love how charming it is and how much there is to do there.
Lydia Smith
So beautiful and it has many nice place to visit at Chili’s island. I will also love to see penguins.
Lyosha
wow! it is such an experience! so interesting! and penguins! I would so travel there. I hope I will, one day
Carol
Wow there is so much to see and do. I’d definitely want to see the penguins.
Surekha Busa
I haven’t heard of this Island before. It looks so great here, I would to see the penguins in oerson. And Castro looks nice..! 😊😍
Kalyan Panja
Thanks for sharing this nice tour guide on things to do in Chiloe. I love visiting the crowded local markets to get the essence of the place.
kumamonjeng
We are planning to visit South America end of next year. It is a huge plan for us as we are flying from Asia, very far and need a connecting flight from Australia or New Zealand. Glad to learn about Chiloe and I shall consider adding this city into my list.
Norma
Great pictures, very colorful! Would love to visit and see the penguins!
Nancy
Absolutely fascinating post. I never heard of this place but it looks idyllic. So glad you shared all this info and the glorious photos with our weekly linkup.
Stacie
That’s so awesome! I want to go see the penguins. I think a trip to Chloe Island would be amazing.
Michelle
Fascinating place! I love the bright colors on the buildings, and was surprised to find bright colors on the churches too. The penguins are really cute.
L. Diane Wolfe
What a beautiful place.
I’d risk choppy waters to see the penguins up close.
mary
I can honestly say this place is all new to me, but it sure looks interesting. The nature alone will get me there, but those colourful villages and churches are also so wonderful. pinned in hopes of getting to it one day!
Hilary
Hi Rhonda – gosh it looks like you’ve had an amazing trip … I’d love to visit – and I’ll remember to try and keep my feet dry. Beautiful and stunning wildlife -let alone the architecture … stilt cottages as well as the churches … lovely to see – thank you – Hilary
Sandee
Looks cold and damp, but ever so colorful.
Have a fabulous day, Rhonda. ♥
Joanna
Chiloe was my favorite stop in Chile. I have spent a few days there, exploring the national park and having curanto with the locals. I did see the penguins as well and just missed the whales, who left one day before I arrived.
stevebethere
Brilliant shots everywhere is so colourful so refreshing 🙂 , that’s a nice smiley photo of the 3 of you heheh!
Thanks for the tour Rhonda have a tourtastic week ➡
Alex J. Cavanaugh
Very colorful place. Churches are quite pretty.
Angela
This looks amazing. I really must get back to Chile soon.
Lady Fi
Amazing tour and shots!