Walking over rolling hills surrounded by endless coastal views, we found the old military ship degaussing station almost out of place today. Built to blend in, most people hiking in Shakespear Park pass without giving it a second glance.
Strategically, however, it’s not surprising to find military installations at Shakespear Park. Located at the end of the Whangaparaoa Peninsula, it overlooks the whole of the Hauraki Gulf, views many of its islands, and can protect Auckland’s inner harbour. It’s one of many military-based sites along the country’s coastline.
Fortunately for visitors, the ship degaussing station is on public land, rather than the New Zealand Defence Force land that occupies much of the north side of the park.
What is ship degaussing?
In simple terms: the process of ship degaussing removes enough of a ship’s magnetic field to allow it to safely sail over mines and other dangers.
As large metal ships sail through the water, they become more magnetic. Strategically, militaries have used this knowledge to set up mines that are triggered and released as the ship passes overhead. Degaussing uses special cables to remove this magnetic property from the ship, allowing them to pass safely.
You can read more about the process from the Torpedo Bay Navy Museum in Devonport.
First, check out Shakespear Park …
Where is the degaussing station in Shakepear Park?
Shakespear Park is located at the end of the Whangaparaoa Peninsula. One of the Auckland regional parks, it encompasses 500 hectares of protected parkland and is one of our personal favourite places in the region. Here, we find three main beaches, an open bird sanctuary, farm animals, and hours of hiking trails.
Situated along the Tiritiri track, the degaussing station is on the east coast of the park. While it’s not labelled on the map below, it can be found at the only inlet marked on the east side of the map, located south of Pink Beach.
If heading here, we either begin our hike at the trailhead marker at Te Haruhi Bay or the one at the backside of the Shakespear Park campground. The track itself follows red trail markers and travels through both flat and steep paddocks. Views vary and include the trail’s namesake, Tiritiri Matangi Island.
The dark green degaussing station is visible from the Tiritiri trail. Here, we can see it as we come down the first main hill whilst heading north from the campground. (Just beyond the degaussing station the Tiritiri path turns inland. However, if you continue straight rather than turn, you will come to the access point for Pink Beach.)
Ship degaussing station in Shakespear Park
To be honest, we typically walk right by the degaussing station when we hike the Tiritiri trail as the gate is usually locked. However, on a recent random day, we had a lucky opportunity to go in and explore.
Degaussing buoys
Off the coast of the degaussing station, we see two marker buoys out in the water. Demagnification took place as ships passed over the coils identified between these two markers. Manually controlled from the station, the system was only used for New Zealand (or friendly) ships.
Surprised to see it from the sea side
We can be sure that in the days of WWII, the ship degaussing station was camouflaged green, not brightly painted in what is either graffiti or NZ street art, depending on your interpretation.
Oddly, the door isn’t painted on the outside, nor was it locked. If you look closely, you can see that the walls are not permanent. Facing the sea, the top would be open so the team could see out to sea. We don’t know if there was glass or any other protection from the elements.
Inside the ship degaussing station
Inside the station, we found the cable connection boxes for deep and shallow range cables. Many of the other things we found inside probably weren’t there in WWII.
Today’s use
It appears as though this piece of New Zealand history is temporarily being used to store park equipment. Here’s what else we found inside.
Other military installations in the park
While Auckland and the rest of New Zealand were prepared for hostile activity, none took place. This is a good thing.
New Zealand Defence Force land
A large portion of Shakespear Park is used by the New Zealand defence force. I have been privileged to be invited onto the land on four different occasions. We have been in the tunnels, seen the large gun encasements (we have also seen similar encasements in Devonport and Dunedin), and been there for rare bird releases.
And I live close enough to occasionally hear the sound of gunfire on the practice ranges, see the test flares shot in the sky, and even hear their alarm blast (rarely).
Pillboxes
Nearly 120 pillboxes were set up around Auckland to defend the port and city against possible Japanese invasion. Eleven of these were set up in Shakespear Park, and only four remain. We have visited two of these.
The pillboxes are somewhat hidden, fortified, and offer expansive views. Armed with machine guns, military men stationed in the pillbox defended the bigger gun encasements.
Anti-tank ditch
Signage along the Heritage trail (yellow track) identify one of the former anti-tank ditches. But really, that’s all that remains.
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Had you seen the ship degaussing station before today?
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Paul Pietrangelo
You know Rhonda, some people still enjoy stuff like this but not me. I hate things about war. I know it happened but I hope that mankind realized their mistakes and we treat each other better but just looking around the world, I’m worried.
Merry Christmas my friend.
Cruisin Paul
Ryan K Biddulph
I learned what degaussing was today. Cool. I never knew about the magnetic nature of ships, either.
RB
Umiko
An interesting piece of history from the WWII. I know nothing about ship degaussing, but I’m sure my husband knows. I am more interested in the pillboxes though. Did Japan ever arrive in New Zealand?
Kay
I have LITERALLYYY never heard of ship degaussing, or why it would be needed, so I’m glad I was able to sit down and read your post! Learn something new every day, huh? That’s the beauty of blogs! It seems so strange that you can just go in and wander about nearby, but I guess that’s also kind of cool in its own way. I remember seeing (and hiking!) to pillboxes in Hawai’i, but I had no idea what they meant back then. It really gives a whole new meaning to my time there…haha…
Catscue
What an amazing place, so pretty – and I learned what degaussing is, thanks!
Carol
I’ve never heard of ship degaussing – fascinating place
Ed
Love this stuff. Thanks for sharing.
Candy
I have never heard of this and even the term “pillbox” was new to me. Those tunnels look so creepy too! I wish people didn’t put graffiti on buildings like this. Do they occasionally paint over graffiti or leave it as is.
Rhonda Albom
That particular structure faces out to sea. I always walk by from the other side, and never knew it had grafitti.
Nancy
Another great post to see if we ever get through this covid mess!
Farrah
New Zealand is super high on my travel bucket list! I didn’t know about this place but I like visiting historical sites + learning more so it’d be awesome to get to come here someday!
Amy Franks
wow I never knew that was there!
Nic
It always surprises me to see WW2 stuff in Aus and NZ because you just don’t associate those places with the actual war. But it’s because of that it’s so fascinating to see what actually happened with training, preparation and so on. It is crazy really how war the war stretched, guess that is why it was a world war!
Franny
As a history nerd, this intrigued me. I def want to go to New Zealand some day to check it out.
Wellness Travel Diaries
What a unique historical place! I love the green and verdant setting this place exists in, it looks like an incredible hike.
Dave Tilley
During WWII the sea leading into Auckland was extensively mined with the main entrance to the harbour being between Whangaparaoa and Tiri Tiri Matangi. From I visit I did a few years ago to the defence force land, we were told that they could control the magnetic mine field between Tiri and the end of the peninsular, turning them on and off to allow friendly shipping to pass through. I believe this is why the degaussing station was located at this location.
Jeff Albom
Thanks for that interesting information. I wonder if there is a book out there that talks all about this era in New Zealand.
Danik
Gonna have to admit (as I am into war history), I never knew or heard of the term ‘degaussing’. So I learnt that today. I can see why you love taking walks in this area, the park looks peaceful and quaint but to have the added bonus of checking out some military history is great. Not sure if I like the idea of the ‘ship-degaussing’ units being used as storage areas. If I was in the area I would probably check it out but I think the views over the park and sea interests me more.
Cassie
Oh looks so interesting (with gorgeous surrounds as well). Will have to check this one out!
L. Diane Wolfe
I would love to explore all the military sites in that park. WWII fascinates me.
Daphna
Very cool! I love checking out random places like that!
Krista
This is such an interesting spot to visit! I love anything related to history so this would be ideal for me to see.
Alex J. Cavanaugh
How fascinating! The deep tunnel looks a bit creepy. Amazing you are able to explore so many military sites.
Josy A
Fascinating! My grandfather was a captain (I know he went to Aus during he war…but I am not sure if he ever got to Kiwiland…) but he never mentioned degaussing, so I had never heard of it. It’s pretty cool that they found a way to reduce the potency of the mines.
I have visited pillboxes like that in both the UK and Canada…it is funny to think they line the coast all over the world!
Sandee
No only have I never seen one before this is the first time I’ve heard about this process. A valuable service back in the day.
Have a fabulous day and weekend, Rhonda. ♥