As you reach the top of Maungakiekie, more commonly known as One Tree Hill Auckland, the first and most obvious question is, “Where is the tree?” While the history below answers that question, one of the newly planted New Zealand trees will soon replace the original icon.
One Tree Hill Auckland history, an interesting story of a missing tree
Located adjacent to beautiful Cornwall Park, Auckland’s second-largest volcanic field has a controversial past.
A large and active Māori pa (fortified village) sat on the dormant One Tree Hill volcano as recently as the 18th century. A battle in 1740 resulted in the chief’s death and the abandonment of the pa. However, one native tree remained.
Not knowing its significance, a white settler cut it down in 1852. In response, prominent businessman John Logan Campbell planted a grove of pine trees, only one of which survived.
In 1901, Campbell donated 230 acres of One Tree Hill to the city of Auckland. He named them “Cornwall Park” in honour of a visit from the Duke and Duchess of Cornwall and of York. Campbell’s gravesite is at the top alongside a bronze statue of Chief Tamaki and an obelisk to commemorate ‘the achievements and character of the great Māori people.’
Memorial flowers sit at the gravesite of John Logan Campbell, while abronze statue of Chief Tamaki, a Māori warrior, stands at the front of the obelisk on One Tree Hill Auckland:
Nearly 100 years later, Māori activists attacked the lone pine that survived John Logan Campbell with a chainsaw, on two separate occasions, first in 1994 and then fatally in 2000. Both times were to draw attention to injustices they believed the New Zealand government had inflicted upon Māori.
The obelisk
Designed as a memorial to the Māori people, the obelisk on One Tree Hill now symbolizes a centennial tower marking the 100 years since the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi.
The obelisk plaque reads: “The monument was erected in accordance with the will of the late Sir John Logan Campbell Kt who visualized and desired that a towering obelisk should be erected on this site, the summit of Mauncakiekie as a permanent record of his admiration for the achievements and character of the great Maori people.“
The views from One Tree Hill
One Tree Hill is an extinct, intact, volcanic cone marking Auckland’s second-largest volcanic field. (The largest is Rangitoto Island.)
The replanting of One Tree Hill Auckland
This is where the tree used to stand on One Tree Hill. In the background, we can see Mount Eden, Auckland’s highest natural point, as well as the Auckland Sky Tower, which is the tallest free-standing structure in the southern hemisphere. Interestingly, the viewing platform on the Sky Tower is at nearly the same height as Mount Eden’s summit.
In June 2016, the Tamaki Makaurau iwi and Auckland council planted nine trees and vegetation to replace the destroyed tree. The fence protects the new trees. Now, it is difficult to distinguish one tree from the next.
The newly planted trees are protected and allowed to grow. In the end, a team of arborists will choose the strongest tree to remain, thus returning Maungakiekie to a “one tree hill”.
At the official announcement in 2015, then-mayor Len Brown said, “Clearly for Aucklanders the return of an icon. Without the tree being on Maungakiekie One Tree Hill, there was a sense of it representing the divided nature of Auckland. Now as a new united city we really want to recognise the tree as a great symbol of the unity of Auckland.” Click here to read the news article about this ceremony.
Pa on Maungakiekie One Tree Hill
Driving yourself and walking up One Tree Hill
- Entry to and parking at Cornwall Park and One Tree Hill is always free.
- You will need to park at the base of the volcano and walk to the top. The One Tree Hill walk is a gentle, easy stroll, although obviously uphill. It’s one of the best walks in Auckland.
- The option to park at the top closed in early 2019. A measure of protection, the trend to close roads to all non-emergency traffic on national landmarks follows Mount Eden.
- If you enter the park on foot from Greenlane Rd, turn into the park and continue on Pohutukawa Drive. Where the road splits, you will see the Cornwall Park Cafe and a toilet block to your left, or follow the path to the right to see the historic buildings. Continuing beyond the historic buildings is the gate leading into One Tree Hill.
- Locals use the path that is just beyond the gate (to the left) to get to the top. It is steep and can be slippery in spots, especially if it has recently rained. The recommended path to the top is along the road.
Take an Auckland city tour that visits One Tree Hill
Only a handful of Auckland city tours visit One Tree Hill, and these half-day tours are the ones we recommend. Note that regardless of how you get there, unless you have an accessibility need, you will have to walk up to the top if you want to see it.
Auckland Volcanos Half-Day Tour
This five-hour tour will get you to the top of four of our most famous volcanos: Mount Wellington, Mangere Mountain, One Tree Hill, and Mount Eden. Best of all, it’s usually available with a discount: Reserve your spot on the volcanos tour here.
Half-Day: Small-Group Auckland Scenic Tour:
This four-hour tour is a great introduction to the city, and perfect for visitors staying and the city, as well as cruise ship passengers. Discover some of Auckland’s history as you visit three volcanoes, each offering very different views.
You will also stroll through one of the older suburbs and visit the Wintergardens. With excellent reviews, we feel really good about this tour. It takes only 11 passengers per tour. You can reserve your spot here.
More on Cornwall Park, NZ
Cornwall Park is a family-friendly destination and a tree lover’s paradise. Groves of trees, gentle walking paths, paddocks with sheep and cattle, and a children’s playground fill the park.
Plus, there are two historic buildings – one being the hand-built home of John Logan Campbell himself. There is also a popular cafe, offering the perfect spot to relax after a hike to the 182m summit.
We have written a separate page on Cornwall Park
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Maungakiekie One Tree Hill and Cornwall Park is one of several special Auckland parks, and are amongst a long list of free things to do in Auckland.
Have you visited One Tree Hill in New Zealand?
More from Auckland you might also like … starting with these 75 free and nearly free things to do in the city
Golden triangle tour 6 days
Thanks for sharing this history about one tree hill, history of this place really very interesting. Just a brief history of the volcano itself – “One Tree Hill” can also now be known as “No Tree Hill” or “Hill” if you want to be funny about it
Ryan Biddulph
Fascinating story Rhonda. Here in Maori country I learn more about their rich history every day. An interesting people who have persisted through pretty rough times I need to say. BTW; I love New Zealand! I will have such a tough time leaving here. Up there with Thailand now as one of my favorite countries on earth. Now I know why you and my Kiwi readers egged me on to visit for so many years. This place sells itself; mind-blowing on so many levels.
Ryan
Kinga
Nice pics ❤️
Silke
Interesting story, Rhonda. An iconic site and a great example of the sometimes tumultuous Kiwi history. Hopefully, these trees will survive and will be a reminder of reconciliation for future generations.
Lyn aka The Travelling Lindfields
Somehow it seems really sad that eight of the trees will be cut down just so that one can remain. It gives real meaning to the phrase ‘survival of the fittest’.
Luke Wilkinson
I remember as a kid when this was cut down. It was given an obituary, printed in the newspaper, on the pulp of other dead trees. I always thought that was ironic.
Anda
Interesting history. There is always so much to learn about New Zealand from your posts, Rhonda. Especially since I know so little about your part of the world. I wish people would plant a few trees when they cut one, but most often than not they don’t. In Romania thousand of acres of beautiful forests have been cut down for the profit of a small bunch of people.
Jill
I realize from reading your post that I know so little about New Zealand’s history. I really enjoy history, though, so I found this post very interesting. Amazing that only one tree survived from the whole grove in the beginning – and now only one will be chosen to survive by the arborists.
Tracy
I love history (I was a history teacher a long time ago) so I really enjoyed reading this! I am also really interested in knowing more about New Zealand too as I haven’t been yet so great to learn new stuff!
Courtney @ Adelante
Such fascinating but loaded history! The views also look quite striking. Thanks for sharing this story!
Amy
I remember a few years ago when it happened, didn’t some guy cut down the tree with a chainsaw?
Lydia C. Lee
Really?? OMG!
Sharon
That’s so interesting that the One Tree is gone, but now more are planted and on the way. This is a great slice of history, with the obelisk monument. And the view is so green!
California Globetrotter
That’s nice that they’ve replanted some trees! It’s so sad when places were colonized and native tribes lost important lands or sacred objects!
Pat @ Travel ETA Australia
I was wondering where is the tree too. LOL. I’ve heard about One Tree Hill little did I know its interesting history. Anyhow, the view from the top is as fascinating indeed.
Indah Nuria
Such an interesting history! And the view is incredible indeed
Amanda
That is so interesting! It sure is a beautiful view. Thanks for sharing! Have a great week 🙂
Carol
Another fascinating post – I do enjoy my adventures with you.
Alison
Your post brought back so many memories! My Dad used to work in New Zealand and my mother and I would visit in the school holidays. Auckland is a beautiful place.
Nancy
How curious! As you said earlier, NZ has some interesting history!
Kay L. Davies
There was a time when I would have loved to climb the hill.
The controversy over the monument makes me think of the indigenous peoples of Canada who are only now beginning to regain their rights and some of their land. It is a long process, and long overdue.
Meanwhile, however, your photos are wonderful and I love the view from the top of that hill which I can no longer climb.
Kay
An Unfittie’s Guide to Adventurous Travel
Rhonda Albom
You can still drive a car to the top.
kayni
Beautiful place and interesting history. I hope those newly planted trees will flourish.
Rhonda Albom
Me too.
Paul Pietrangelo
Amazing location with the obelisk at the top of the hill. I really enjoy the historical material that you give us Rhonda. I’m glad that I’m able to read everything now. My computer was attacked on Saturday with these people who wanted me to clean the mess for $500. I didn’t thanks to my computer friend. I was a scam that scares people.
Enjoy your day my friend. See ya.
Cruisin Paul
Wednesday Elf
The view from the top is gorgeous and the history behind One Tree Hill is fascinating. I would so love to visit Auckland and all of New Zealand.
Kelleyn Rothaermel
What a funny name for the place! Gorgeous view!
Lady Fi
What great views!
Sue Archer
I was wondering right from the beginning where the tree was. So sad that it kept getting cut down. It’s an impressive monument, but obviously the sentiment behind it has not kept disputes from happening.
Rhonda Albom
I assume you’re referring to the revised sentiment, as it was originally originally a Memorial to a dying race.
C. Lee McKenzie
If I have a chance to return to NZ, I’m pulling up your posts to plan an itinerary. I’m really enjoying this armchair travel.
Rhonda Albom
I do hope you get a chance to come back. Contact me when you do, We can meet up for a coffee.
Faye North
It’s amazing that after all these centuries people are still marking important sites with obelisks.
Ruth Cox
The obelisk is as amazing as the views of Auckland and the lack of a tree on the Hill is rather sad. I did jump over to the article about the Waitangi treaty too and it would appear some underhandedness occurred with the government and the Maori.
Rhonda Albom
There’re several versions that go with that story, I am not sure which one you read. The big problem comes from translation. The Treaty of Waitangi is written in both English and Maori, but when translated they’re not the same.
Tim H
Sounds like it’s time to commission a Maori artist to sculpt a metal (chainsaw resistant) tree.
Suze The Luxury Columnist
The views from the lookout are fantastic, did you walk up?
Charlotte
Lovely scenery and view. Very interesting history.
stevebethere
Interesting post and photos & LOL @ Lisa Ross comment 🙂
Have a treetastic weekend Rhonda 🙂
Paul F. Pietrangelo
I too wondered where the tree was. I loved the photo overlooking the town, beautiful. History teaches us a great deal of things. Once again, thanks. Have a brilliant Friday Rhonda. See ya.
Cruisin Paul
Elen @ Elen G
I did wonder where the tree was, Rhonda. It’s true.
Hilary
Hi Rhonda – yes how sad the tree doesn’t live to tell the tale – but the monument would be another matter. I love the description … “The summit of Mauncakiekie as permanent record of his admiration for the achievements and character of the great Maori people”
Beautiful shots too … fascinating to keep seeing the volcanoes … cheers Hilary
Alex J. Cavanaugh
Impressive monument. And not the place to be if you are a tree,
betty
Kinda of sad with the demise of the tree; I can see why it would be have destroyed like that; it probably was a great symbol of the area and being the one tree there, but sad. Beautiful view though from the area!
betty
Rhonda Albom
There is a flagpole up north at the Waitangi treaty grounds that it has suffered the same fate.
Chrys Fey
Whenever I hear “One Tree Hill”, I think of the show. And even while watching that show, which had nothing to do with New Zealand, I always wondered about that tree and that hill. lol
How sad that the tree was chopped down several times. 🙁
J Lenni Dorner
Fantastic post. I haven’t been there. It is amusing that the tree keeps getting taken down.
Rhonda Albom
From the story perspective it’s amusing, but politically kind of sad.
Ellen @ The Cynical Sailor
I remember being surprised to find there was no tress. Have you ever done the coast to coast walk? You start at the Viaduct and make your way thru Auckland. One Tree Hill is one of the stops on the way.
Rhonda Albom
I was surprised too, the first time. Now I’m quite fascinated by the whole thing. Would love to do that walk sometime, maybe when you get back to Auckland, we can do it together?
Anabel
Another great view point, and an interesting story. Just been back to check out the boots! Fab.
Rhonda Albom
We bought the boots from Amazon.com in the states. They are a definite favorite.
Lisa Ross
never mind one tree hill, i love Sarah’s boots!
Courtney Turner (@mauijungalow)
That looks like a great view from there. Also, it seems from your notes that there was a tree there originally, another tree that was chopped in 1960, and then if Maori activists chainsawed a tree in 1994 and 2000, then there must have been another tree planted. I guess they don’t want to keep replanting trees.